
I never thought that I would ever go back to Egypt, but this past week I was in Cairo to do some visual research for my work. Many of you know that I travelled to Egypt a few years ago, and this experience was completely different from the first time I went. Arab countries are closed societies, and I feel like sight-seeing tours do everything to distance the groups from the regular people and keep things "Western." While Egypt is not the safest place (especially for women), and I would never suggest going around Egypt without a tour guide of some sort, I feel like coming back the first time my perception of Egyptians was whittled down to silent
skeevy men and pushy salesmen waiting for their next buck.
Going this time around, I initially was not that excited, but I came back with such an amazing experience. For the trip, we were scheduled to go to nine schools in Cairo, speak to teachers and supervisors, and also just hang out with the staff. We were always attended by one staff member from our local office, and to be able to talk to a civilian Egyptian about their life was really interesting. I learned a lot of interesting things about Egyptians and saw how liberal their country was compared to other Arab Nations.
The classes we observed were for 5th and 6th grade children learning English. Seeing the teachers in action and speaking to them afterwards, you get a sense of how passionate they are about their work and the children. I think we think of Arab women being demure and silent, but these ladies were tough! They were very clear on what they liked, how they teach, and what they wanted in the books we produced. It wasn't rude in anyway, and their hospitality towards us was genuine, but you could see how serious they were about what they taught and wanted to be able to be the best teacher possible. The children were lovely and equally as eager to impress the foreigners. I don't think I could walk into a classroom in the U.S. and see as many children wanting to volunteer answers and read aloud.

In regards to being foreigners, I was as foreign as it came to them. It was brought to my attention the second day of visits by one of our Egyptian reps that many of the children would stare at me during class. I didn't notice because I was observing the teacher or looking through the books in the classroom. The rep was worried that I might get offended, but to a certain extent it is understandable, so I said I didn't really care. The only Asian people they see are on average 50 years old and in groups of 20 or more, so I can see how I may look odd to them.
I expected a certain level of "racism" because I experienced it before when I came to Egypt. I put racism in quotes because it isn't out of hatred, but more of having nothing else to say to me or pointing out the obvious. I think I heard "konichiwa", "ni-how", and the occasional "bonjour" (I don't get it either) about 50 times a day. The children would yell random kung-fu sounds at me, and would just throw out the names Jackie Chan and Bruce Lee. Now, in any Western country, this would make me crazy, but what can you do. People said nice things too, like I have beautiful eyes (which I don't think I have ever heard in my life - chinky eyes are not the pinnacle of beauty to Westerns), and that I had lovely hair. Egyptians are random in what comes out of their mouths.
Now, while I tolerate this in the Egyptian people, I expect that when I go back to the fortress of our hotel filled with Western travelers that no one would bat an eye at me. After a long day, my co-worker and I sat in the lounge to share a bottle of wine and chill out. Things were going well, but towards the end of the evening, this Finnish man comes up to me and says, "Are you Chinese?" Fine, easy mistake, all Asians look a like, blah blah. So I politely say no, and he keeps going on about this. Here is a snippet:
Man: "Are you Chinese?"
Me: "No."
Man: "Oh, because from where I was sitting you seem to have the most excellent looks of a Chinese woman."
Me: "I am Korean."
Man: "I would like to practice my Chinese."
Me: "Sorry I can't help you. The only words I know are water, poo, pee, and Friday."
I am just getting annoyed at this point, so my co-worker steps in and starts chatting about what he is doing in Egypt. We move on to the fact that he is here to open a second factory for Nokia. This is the point where he comes out with this gem of a comment: "Some people may think that employing children is slave labor, but I call it equal opportunity. We Finnish are nothing but fair." Amazing. He explains that he will be in Cairo for three weeks and we just say "Wow, that's for a long time." His response? "I am not gay, nor am I a fag, but I like to work." I didn't know that in Finland to be gay meant you also were a workaholic. So this guy is clearly insane. Did I mention that he also looked EXACTLY like this?:

So at some point my co-worker thinks it would be a good idea to ask this guy TO SIT DOWN. I wish she spoke Korean for me to verbally bitch-slap her for this idea, but luckily this guy had a "most excellent seat" in the corner, so he declined. He just continued to loom over us and told us that he had a Chinese wife and 4 children, and would REALLY like to practice his Chinese. I was starting to suspect that he thought I was lying to him, which is ridiculous. So after another excruciating 5-minutes, he goes away, we hurry up and finish, and walk to the elevators.
On the way to the elevators is a row of shops, so as we are waiting for the elevators, Finnish Peter Griffin pops out of a jewelry store and goes, "Justine, come here, I have to show you something." Oh, before he was saying it was a shame I did not have an ethnic name and a Western name (WTF?!??!). So my co-worker and I reluctantly go into this shop, and he whips out this silver necklace of the Eye of Horus and proclaims he wants to buy it for me. I just laughed in his face and we have the following exchange:
Me: "I am American, I don't take gifts from strangers."
Man: "Nonsense, I want to buy it for you. And you are not wearing any jewels."
Me: "This is silver, and I am not taking it."
Man: (something in Chinese)
Me: "I DON'T SPEAK CHINESE!!! Why don't you buy your wife something instead?"
Man: "She is swimming in gold. This is for you."
UGH. So he is going on and blocking the exit with his mass, so we can't escape. I have a salesman in there telling me that I will get cursed if I reject a gift of the Eye of Horus, and my co-worker is standing there speechless. With no way out but to take this gift, I just snatched it, said thanks, and he held my hand in his paw and said "It will look most excellent on you." AAAAHHH....too bad I never am putting this thing on, curse be damned. Then he said something else in Chinese, let me go, and we booked it to the elevators.
So that was the random event to occur on my trip. Besides that disturbing encounter, the rest of my time was lovely. I finally got to see the Pyramids, as the last time we could not see it because of a sandstorm that hit Giza, went to the bazaar at night, drank about 30 cups of tea a day, ate some Egyptian food, and got to spend some one-on-one time with the area manager's wife and daughter, which was really cool. Here are some facts I learned or experienced:
- Hassan's wife told us not all women are required to be veiled, many of them do it for their own comfort, not by law. It was also revealed that some girls wear them because they have bad hair and just want to cover it up. You can tell these girls by what they wear. If they are showing wrists, arms, or their clothing is form fitting in any way, they are not wearing the veil for religious reasons, it is more to cover up their ratty hair.
- Egyptians LOVE their sugar. The tea they have is a bit sweeter than what I am used to, so I didn't take any sugar in it. One of the receptionist ladies looked very confused, and our rep told us that only old people drink it without sugar because they are diabetic. Hmmm...perhaps they are diabetic because they scoop two spoonfuls of sugar into a cup no bigger than a thimble?
- I think the entire time I was in Cairo, I saw only one traffic light. Everything is weird U-turns, and the traffic is an absolute cluster-fuck.
- There is no limit to how many people are on a bus. In our country, there is a limit to capacity, but in Cairo, there are people literally hanging out on the outside bumper of the bus or metro train. I saw a man just run up to the train and latch on to the side. Our reps response? "Only in Egypt!"
- Disney is an OBSESSION. The cult of High School Musical has reached epidemic proportions.
- Egyptians have the craziest weddings. In our hotel, there was a wedding almost every night (mind you all week-nights). This involved a parade through the hotel featuring drums, trumpets, and a bagpipe (?). It was cool to see, but since our rooms were located on the same floor as the reception hall, we were not getting very good sleep with these parties going on till 2AM, and by the third one, I wished marriage was just outlawed.
There is so much more I learned from this trip, but its business related so I won't bore you with market details. Here are some pictures to leave you with:

Us with one of our reps, Mahkmud

One of the thousand wedding parades we witnessed

The Nile and Cairo

Ground view of the Pyramids

Me with our rep, Sharif

The Sphinx

A stall in the Bazaar
Overall, an unexpected amazing time! Hopefully more adventures to come~